Day 18/23


Again it has been raining all night and I kind of bivouacked half of the night on the toilet. Did not feel sick, but emptied myself completely. Girl the day before yesterday at the other lodge seemed to have the same problem. Kind of cleansing or something.

This morning I am not feeling for breakfast and thus I skip it. When I go into the shower and open the tap, two small frogs appear. They do not come out of the tap, but from underneath the ring that you can turn around. Beautiful animals they are. One goes back and does not come out again anymore. I wonder how they come here, maybe from under the door?

While I am under the shower, one of them jumps onto the wall, thereafter jumps on the edge under the window and leaves via a very small hole in the wall. How do they know this?

During check-out I ask for a banana instead of breakfast, for later during the day. Then follow a somewhat exciting road via Puerto Jimenez to Bosque del Cabo Rainforest Lodge. Exciting, because this is new terrain and very close to Corcovado National Park.

I have no idea what the conditions here will be. But what I do know is dat I have to cross 5 rivers/streams and that the water here varies between 10 to 170 centimeters. They already told me to stop at the office in Puerto Jimenez before going further. Most of the guests are brought in with a shuttle.

In less than 2 hours I arrive in Puerto Jimenez. What surprises me is that none of the streets have an asphalt topping and that there is a lot of police here.

‘Where is the office?’ I ask myself. I talk to an officer of the law and ask in my best Spanish whether he knows where the office is. After several attemps of him trying to explain to me, he tells me that I will have to ask his friend. That appears to be an ex bartender of the lodge. He tells me that the office is a couple of blocks away from here. I thank him and drive in that direction, but am not able to find the office. I do not feel like to keep driving around here and decide to continue. If I end up at a river that I can not or not dare to cross, I can always return.

The road is not worse than I have seen here before. After a while, I find myself at the first river. Low gear, 4 wheel drive and slowly cross it. It is not that bad. On the GPS-map I can follow my progress towards the lodge. Finally, I end up at the lodge within 40 minutes. The banks of the last river were much steeper than of the others, but I managed to cross it.


The reception is very kind and the cabins are sooooooo luxurious. Couple of hundred meters above the ocean, large cabin with terrace, hammock and stretchers. Barely half an hour later I can join the lunch. The menu contains 10 dishes where I can choose from.

After lunch I start looking for my first hike. At the restaurant I am surprised by mother and daughter from a couple of days ago in Tiskita Jungle Lodge. The girl was ill at the time and I gave her some of my ORS-supply. They ask me to join them for lunch, but as I have already had mine we agree to have diner together. Good! These are nice people. I have spoken to them only shortly before, because of Daphne and all her stories.

I walk via a swinging bridge to the tropical garden together with a couple from Canada. There is not much to see at this time and it starts raining. After a while it stops and I walk to a lookout point for a view on the ocean. Dark spots I notice in the ocean that indicate thicker clouds above it. They are not so clear on the photograph as I see them. More rain to come this means.

Storm above the ocean

On the way back I meet the biologist of the lodge. He tells me to walk the Titi-trail. Most of the animal spottings are overthere. Only 4 days ago, a Puma walked into the camp. Quite unreal if you ask me. One of the guests shot a photograph of it.

The Tiki-trail is quite dark and after a couple of hundred meters I spot a few birds. I walk back, screw camera, lens and flashlight together, but as I return all the birds are gone. I keep walking with my camera out of the bag, but the only thing I do encounter is a beautiful tree. It is so dark in this forest, that it takes the camera 25 seconds with ISO 200 for a photograph. Only 1 percent of the light reaches the forest floor, and that is exactly what I see here.




After half an hour when I am the farthest away, it starts raining. I bag all my equipment and cover it with a rain cover. After another half an hour I am back in the lodge, completely soaked. For today, I am done.

I lay myself in my hammock for a couple of hours reading, while the rain poors down around me. At 18:00, I go to the open lounge where they have wireless internet, in order to process everything of the last few days and there I find Dori (as seems to be her name). Internet has to wait, first we will have a talk. Dori is not the mother, but the aunt of the girl (of whom I forgot her name). The girl does not have a nice life behind her and Dori takes her on holiday once in a while, as long as she gets good grades at school (nice!). Dori has been to Costa Rica 6 or 7 times before and this is her 3rd time here. For her this is also the first time with such bad weather.

Later I hear that these are the remnants of a Caribic Hurricane. Last week has been beautiful.

Then we have dinner. All tables are ordered in rows now instead of in groups and there is a buffet of pasta, chicken and vegies. Tastes good. Tiramisu as dessert. Dori tells me that she has done a frog-tour with the biologist earlier closeby. After that she has gone alone overthere. The bio saw her returning and was startled. Now, with this wet weather the place seems to be infested with fer-de-lances. Apparently, they like the wet grass. During the day they retreat into the bushes, but at night they are on the hunt. There have been several close encounters with guests that almost stepped on them. brrr.

Around 23:00 I go to bed as well..

Maps, Charts & Downloads

GPS Map with color coded altitude information

Color coded distance/altitude chart

Color coded distance/altitude chart, Costa Rica Dry Season 2011, Day 18

Download the original gpx file here.